Chassis

The chassis we will be using is a Howe Racing NASCAR chassis used by car #22.  This chassis is a boxed 2x4 tube design with chromoly upper and lower a-arms in the front and aluminum truck arms in the rear.  This setup is designed to be extremely adjustable, strong and lightweight. 

Right now I am working on test fitting the truck to the frame.  The chassis setup as it sits right now is too wide in the center for our cab, so we will have to narrow it.  We will update the blog on any further modifications we may need to make to the frame in the future.

Front Brake Setup

Front brake setup includes: Howe large bearing steel spindles, Brembo 13" x 1.25" rotors and Wilwood ultra light billet aluminum 4-piston calipers.  Weight: 54lbs per side.

Our goal horsepower for this project is somewhere in the 700 range, and with an all iron big-block Chevy under the hood some stout brakes are required.  That's why we picked up this beefy but light brake setup.  This setup comes straight off of a cup car.  This is probably the best brake setup available for vehicles without ABS.  With some insane stopping power and significant weight savings up front, I think this will be a valuable addition to our truck.

We will update the blog next week and give you a sneak peek at the rear brakes and front suspension (also from a cup car).

Collecting Parts

As we collect parts for the project, we will try and keep you updated on the parts we are using and what we are using them for.  Here are the parts we have collected so far:

Axel: This is a Sierra Full-Floater HD9 set up with billet 6-piston calipers. It currently has wide-5 hubs that we will be converting to 5-on-5 hubs.  We will also be installing a nodular third member with either a Detroit locker or an aggressive posi unit.

Crank: GM Steel 454 Crank

Rods and Pistons: Pistons are J.E. 4.5" forged. Rods are Scat bushed i-beam rods with 7/16" ARP rod bolts.

Heads: World Racing Products iron Merlin heads.  Port volume 335cc. Combustion chamber volume 116cc. SS Intake valve 2.25. SS exhaust valve 1.88.  These heads have been prepped, ported and polished by Bob Morgan.  The heads will be topped with AFR guide plates, 7/16" ARP rocker studs, 1.7 stainless steel roller rockers and B&B billet stud girdle.  All capped off with fabricated aluminum valve covers and held to the block with an ARP stud kit.

 Fuel Pump: Race Pumps fuel pump.

Oil Filter: System One remote oil filter.

Intake Setup: Polished Weiand rectangular port tunnel ram (will be port matched to the heads). Topped with dual 600 Holly carburetors.  Due for a fresh polish.

Transmission Components: B&M Turbo 400 trick-shift 2000 stall converter.  Polished aluminum pan.

Brake Master Cylinder

Welcome to the Baddest Blog Build on the Block

The Idea:

Take a completely original 1951 Chevy farm truck from Oregon, previously used as daily driver, and transform it into a Street Rod unlike the typical cookie cutter custom; No prefabbed rolling chassis, No standard 350 Small Block, No Mustang II bolt-on suspension.  This Street Rod will be Built not Bought.

The Builder/Fabricator:
My name is Brandon Matthews.  I am 26 years old and I have been surrounded by high horsepower engines and muscle cars my entire life.  Nothing makes me happier than creating something from nothing. 

This project will be my interpretation of what a Street Rod truck should be and will be my canvas to show what I am capable of creating. 

This is our shop dog Bently.

The Shop
A 4000 square foot warehouse located in North Las Vegas that is rapidly being filled with second hand tools (no Snap-On trucks here).  I have everything I need to get a project like this finished: you name it, I have it.


The Process
We will be updating this blog with pictures and posts through each step of the build.  We would love to hear your comments - just keep them positive ;).